Thursday, 3 May 2012

Week two- 6th and 7th Day


Day six- Tuesday 1st May
10am-6pm


My first of task of the day was to hand-sew tape to the lapels- on the inside of the jacket-, next to the roll line.

Next I was putting binding on to the hem of a pair of black trousers.



It took me a while to do the first leg, as I could not get it straight and to lay flat. But after a while I got the top stitching looking good and the second one went in perfectly straight away.

To finish off the day I sew together the outer leg seams, being careful to match up the binding on each side. 


Day seven- Wednesday 2nd May
10am-7am


Today begun with sewing the in the sleeve lining of the grey jacket, as show in the photograph above.



The above image of the fold that is put into the cap height of the lining, this is done instead of gathers. It is much faster to do and i think looks better.


These two photographs are of the back of the lining. They show the fold in on the center back, it runs from the back neck down to the hem.

I spend the rest of the day finishing off the hemming on the black trousers I was working on yesterday. First I had to re-press the fold line, to make sure it was straight a crisp. Secondly I had to hand-sew the hem up, only catching one thread of the trousers fabric so the stitch would not show through to the front. I had major problems with this, because the trouser leg was too big when the hem when It was turned up. I was not looking smooth and was bucklering, causing the stitch that I had carefully done show through to the front. So I had to unpick all the work that I had just done.

To fix this problem I had to make the leg slimmer. First I measured how much I needed to take off the side seam. It was 1.5cm, so I took off 75mm from each side of the seam. Unpick the inside leg seam, and then marked out with pins the new seam with pins. At the fold line of the hem I had to merge the new seam line back with the old seam line of 1cmm I had to also do this at the top where I had not unpicked.  Next I sew a straight stitch down following the pins (there was not a little bit extra seam allowance), I then re-pressed the hem and hand-sew the hem back up. I stayed an hour later to get this done.



Above images show the trouser leg after the alterations had been made to the inside seam, and the hem pinned up before I hand-sew it again.

While I was working on the trousers, a client came round to be measure for a suit. The House of Sunny is a women’s wear brand, but the client was a man. As he was going to be paying good money for a suit and wanted a tailored made one, Sunny Williams agreed to do it. Sunny can make men’s suits so it was not a problem, but was happy that the client did not want trousers as well! It was interesting to see the measurements being taking, as I have told practiced this on class mates and not actually used the measurements.

My next post will be of Eighth day with the House of Sunny. 



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